Best thing I ate: Critic Brad A. Johnson’s 20 best dishes of 2018
Torta de Milanesa at Playa Mesa. A football-sized bolillo is buttered and toasted and slathered with a glop of refried beans and chipotle mayo, then heaped with finely shredded lettuce, pickled jalapeños and fat slices of avocado and tomato. Stuffed into the middle of all this is a thinly pounded steak, fried to a crisp. Everything about this Mexican sandwich ($14) is perfect.